Here’s our guide of things to look out for when shopping for vintage Levi’s – whether to date a pair or spot a counterfeit pair.
As with all of our fashion label guides, most dates will be +/- a year or two due to the number of factories involved, having to sell through older stock etc.
You won’t be surprised to know we haven’t covered everything there is to look for when dating your jeans, but we’ve picked out the details we think are easiest to look for.
The rear pocket tab
1936
Red tab introduced
1953
Levi’s printed on both sides
1954
Denim Famliy
1960
Non-denim and from 1968, Levi’s for Gals
1964
Sta-Prest anti-wrinkle
1965
Super slims
1969
Fashion fits
1971
Change from ‘Big E’ to ‘little e’
1988
Baggy/grunge fit
2003
Change of typeface (wide L and flat e)
2009
Made & Crafted vintage classics
2018
Return of Big E for premium products
10%
To protect the trademark of the pocket tab Levi’s have to use a blank tab to show it isn’t only the lettering that makes it theirs, thus preventing other brands from using a red tab. 10% of their output across the range is made with a blank tab.
Stitching
1937
INSIDE WAISTBAND
Lemon yellow single stitch
V line stitch
OUTSIDE LEG SEAM
White selvedge
REAR POCKETS
Reinforced with rivets (inside)
1965
INSIDE WAISTBAND
Orange single stitch
1967
REAR POCKETS
Rivets (inside) & bar tacks*
*Row of small stitches to strengthen the seam
1970s
Phasing out of using lemon stitching on detailing to all orange stitching
1970
INSIDE WAISTBAND
Chain stitch & removal of V line stitch
1971
INSIDE REAR POCKETS
Orange single stitch
1976
REAR POCKETS
Various colour bar tacks
1978
INSIDE REAR POCKETS
Orange chain stitch
1981
OUTSIDE LEG SEAM
Orange overlock stitch
1983
REAR POCKETS
Orange bar tacks across top stitch
1985
OUTSIDE LEG SEAM
White overlock stitch
Care labels
1968
Care text printed on right pocket bag
1971
Care text label on left leg outseam
1985
Change from sentence case
to all caps
1987
Red batwing logo on care label
“Care on reverse”
1993
Red / black batwing logo
Care symbols added
2003
No longer made in USA
Modern multi-language label
The earlier care labels above are US versions. Levi’s founded a European division (in Belgium) in 1983, which will be noticeable on later UK labels. Our guide on dating with care labels from issue 103 will help you date UK/EU labels. You’ll find it here.
Two horses patch
The back two horse patch has had a number of little changes over the years, but the key two to highlight here are:
1991 – Style and size changed from red to black
2003 – MADE IN U.S.A removed
To compile these guides we consult a variety of primary and secondary sources, looking to multiple sources to verify each piece of information. If you think we’ve made any mistakes, please get in touch!