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Issue: CC115
20th August 2024

High tea / high fashion

Made by Wedgwood / owned by Lagerfeld

© Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Having profiled one 1920s tea set in this issue, we thought it would be nice to show another, very different set, from the same period. This is the Campanula – a 1923 tea and coffee set designed for Wedgwood by French designer Paul Follot. It currently resides in the V&A Wedgwood Collection (in Stoke-on-Trent), museum worthy due to its rarity. The set was only made in a small quantity, due to being very labour-intensive for Wedgwood to produce, and Art Deco style pieces are also uncommon for Wedgwood.

‘Campanula’ coffee and tea set, Paul Follot for the factory of Josiah Wedgwood, bone china, c. 1923 © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

The set is comprised of eight designs. 1: Cafetière (coffee pot) / 2: Petite Théière (small teapot) / 3: Sucrier (sugar bowl) / 4: Pot à Crême (milk jug) / 5: Tasse à “Chocolat Américaine” (hot chocolate cup) / 6: Tasse à Café (coffee cup) / 7: Tasse à Café smaller 8: Tasse à Thé (tea cup). Each cup has it’s own saucer.

“The ‘Campanula’ design is distinguished by a scrolling handle and an elaborate long fluted finial surmounted by a fleur-de-lis. The hand-painted decoration features black enamel stripes highlighted with a gilded stripe motif, on a gilded base with a scroll pattern.”

Woman’s skirt suit, designed by Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, AutumnWinter 1987, France. Museum no. T.4&A-1988. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London
Cafetière from the ‘Campanula’ tea and coffee set, designed by Paul Follot for Josiah Wedgwood and sons, 1923, Etruria, Stoke-on-Trent, England. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

What gives this set a certain je ne sais quoi is who owned it, for this set was owned by the fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld. As the set shows signs of wear, we can presume Largerfeld used the set, making it more than just a piece amongst his sizeable collection of art and ceramics. A skirt suit from Lagerfeld’s A/W 1987 collection for Chanel bears an uncanny resemblance to the set – was he drinking a cup of coffee when he sketched out his design?!

Conservation of the sucrier in the V&A conservation studio, 2022. Museum no. WE.29-2021. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London
Tasse à ‘Chocolat Américaine’, from the ‘Campanula’ tea and coffee set, designed by Paul Follot for Josiah Wedgwood © Victoria and Albert Museum, London